Boris Grebenshchikov was one of the first Russian artists to speak out against the war in Ukraine. Soon their shows in Russia had to be cancelled. But he was welcomed in Visaginas, Lithuania’s youngest and most Russian city. How it was – in the DW report.

How the “atomic capital” became a province in a pine forest

Visaginas is the youngest city in Lithuania, this year it turned 47. The main attraction is the Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant. Construction began in 1975, followed by a satellite city. Visaginas is also called the city of pine trees, it is in the middle of the forest on the lake shore. Atomic scientists from all over the Union came here, before 36 thousand people lived in the city, today – just over 18 thousand – all because the nuclear plant has already closed. Some of the specialists left for Russia and Belarus to continue working in their specialty, some got offers in Finland and Norway. The second power unit was stopped in 2010, but disassembly and decontamination work continues. According to forecasts, will be completed by 2040, about 1,500 people continue to serve the station.

“How long have I lived here? It’s been 39 years,” calculates Calina, a women’s clothing saleswoman and former nuclear plant worker, on a calculator. “I arrived in 1983 from Ukraine. “And people began to Qualified specialists went to other nuclear power plants, especially younger ones. Our specialists with a Russian passport went to Belarus, to the Ostrovets nuclear power plant. There is little work in the city itself, basically everyone goes somewhere. to Vilnius, or more to Europe, I have a son in Holland.”

But, according to Galina, in recent years retired Russians have started to come to the city. A modest two-bedroom apartment here can be bought for 30-40 thousand euros. And when the war started, many Ukrainians came. “In schools – we have Russian and Lithuanian – I heard that they even started teaching Ukrainian as an elective, teachers from Ukraine also came here. I myself want to get my father out of Kyiv, he is disabled,” she says.

“If a person doesn’t speak Lithuanian, we switch to Russian”

In Visaginas, you immediately notice that most people speak Russian – not just older people, but even children. This is the most Russian speaking city in the country. According to statistics, more than 50% of the city’s residents are ethnic Russians, there are Belarusians and Ukrainians, most of them also use Russian. In stores, customers are addressed in Lithuanian – and immediately translated, if not clear, into Russian. The August 6 concert in honor of the city’s day is in Lithuanian, but at the end of the performance, the artists congratulate the residents in Russian. The mayor of the city, when giving a welcoming speech, starts to applaud only when he switches from Lithuanian to Russian.

“Everyone understands each other,” explains barista Diana. “If a person does not speak Lithuanian, we switch to Russian. Also, Ukrainians have come to us now, we understand that they need time.”

Unlike Vilnius and Kaunas, where Ukrainian flags are hung from many public buildings and only residential buildings as a sign of support, this is almost non-existent in Visaginas. There was a case where the flag on the wall was covered with black paint. In a local group on social media, opinions were divided on this issue: some residents called it barbarism, but there were also those who considered it inappropriate to hang Ukrainian flags. “We had Lithuanians driving cars with Lithuanian and Ukrainian flags. “What is it for? – says the saleswoman of women’s articles Galina. “There’s an embassy – let them hang flags there.”

Spectators at the Grebenshchikov concert in Visaginas

Visaginas is still called the “atomic capital” of Lithuania, although today it is already a small provincial town. In 2019, he suddenly became known around the world – after the premiere of the popular American series “Chernobyl”, it was the Ignalina nuclear power plant that was used for filming. Tourists flocked here, but the pandemic thwarted big plans. Local authorities do not give up and are looking for new solutions: they accept the collection of TV presenter and fashion historian Alexander Vasilyev for security, organize a free concert by Boris Grebenshchikov on the city day. Both have spoken out against the war in Ukraine, and now the big question is whether they will be able to work in their homeland.

“I came especially from Vilnius for the Grebenshchikov concert”, says the retired Viktor. “I was lucky enough to hear it once, I hope the rain today doesn’t get in the way of the show.

“Let me be in the dark but I see the light”

Boris Grebenshchikov with his musicians is assembling the equipment for the concert. A real downpour begins, and people who have come to Visaginas specifically to hear Grebenshchikov are anxiously asking if the show will be cancelled. The musician plays melodies calmly, not paying attention to the noise.

Closer to the beginning of the presentation, people occupy the entire small area, some climb on the roofs of the entrances of the masonry houses – to see better. The rain slowly calms down and a rainbow appears in the sky – Grebenshchikov enters the stage: “I’m very happy to see you!”

He was one of the first Russian artists to condemn the attack on Ukraine. “What is happening in Ukraine is a shame. A shame for the whole world, and a shame for Russia in particular,” he said on social media. “What is happening is true madness. The people who started this war have gone mad. .

After that, Grebenshchikov’s concerts in Russia were canceled “for obvious reasons” for “an indefinite period”, and the musician himself left for the United Kingdom, part of the group, according to him, remains in Moscow.

Belarusian white-red-white flags were also at the show

There are no political statements at the concert in Visaginas. “As I breathe, I still ask for the clear light to come back to us”, “Let me be in the dark, but I see the light”, sound the songs. And after each one, he thanks the audience, and they reply, “We’ve been waiting for you!”

As the Grebenshchikov concert is ending, Vilnius youth gather their street concert at the next venue, right next to the shopping mall, came to congratulate the residents of Visaginas. They are just over 20 years old, they fervently and on demand sing Max Korzh, Basta, “Tender May”, “Boombox”. Everyone sings along, and for a moment you remember that there was a time when you didn’t have to think about why Basta, who has been collecting shows in Ukraine for many years, is silent about the war, why Max Korzh doesn’t can perform in Kyiv or Moscow, and whether he was boombox leader seriously injured. In the pause comes Grebenshchikov’s final word: “Try to find the beginning if you want to untangle the ends.”