In deep Athens, where the mental inflows of memory and experience flow, the cycles of time are felt. I walked along Solonos Street from Kolonaki towards Exarchia and stopped after Sina to examine with my eyes the aged facades of residential buildings.

The blue flagship, the corner with Marseille, further along the residential building designed by Isaac Saporta on Solonos, and even lower, before the turn to Asklepiou, memories form a palimpsest of people, houses, clinics, shops, books. Nearby, fragmentary sensations invade from the fabrics of clothes, the timbres of voices, the shadows of friends. This walk through such central Athens unintentionally took on the character of a pilgrimage. And this pilgrimage takes place quietly, without drama, without a change of pace. The small church of Agia Anargyri in Solonos hides precious hagiographies, stands with looted busts of writers look like a farce, the back of the Spiritual Center reminds us that this is where Naples began, already in the 19th century.

But before Asclepius, Athens filled the lungs. I stand on the corner with Solonos and look up to feel the density of the urban population. Interwar residential buildings are lined up in a row. Solonos and Asklipiou, semi-circular end tenement building from 1937, like the next one at number 17. At number 19, the most beautiful apartment building in the area. Tenement house designed by the architect Konstantinos Kyriakidis (1881-1942), also known for his Art Nouveau apartment buildings, which he designed in his native Constantinople.

The apartment building at Asklipiou 19, built in 1934, is in dialogue with the also excellent Kyriakida apartment building in Kolonaki (Ypsilantou and Plutarchou). It shows us the level of urban culture in some parts of Athens during the interwar years, but undoubtedly in Naples (and not only in Kolonaki) as well as in Exarchia, the old apartment buildings are witnesses of an urban culture, with depth and quality. 19 Asklepiou should be declared a newer monument and resources should be found to restore the façade, which is in very poor condition.

Despite this, if you stand with your back to the also good interwar apartment building at Asklipio 6, you can see the special stylistic vocabulary of Konstantinos Kyriakdis, his special aesthetic universe (he himself designed the house with a dome, Panepistimo and Korai, which was abolished around 1934 and became the State Accounts Chamber). Forgotten Athens, but, paradoxically, alive and active, if you look at them with an open mind.

Around Asklipion, Skouf, Grivaya, Marseille, Kaplano, Sina, Statas, Manjaru, a dense, stable world, embalmed in places, lively in places, constantly seething. The shadow and aura of the old tenements are a constant reminder of the deep urban culture of Naples. But also a reminder of how much we neglected and left time to decay. If you walk along these streets again in order to re-map the city, then you will be in for a surprise. Such is wealth. The façade of Asklipiou street remains the crown.